Snow Hole Expedition on Creag Meagaidh

After Sunday’s trip up Aonach Mor with Alfie for some winter skills practice, Monday saw us taking on the bigger challenge of an overnight expedition in the snow without a tent. Last year we enjoyed a two night night trip up Cairngorm, but this time opted for a one night snow hole expedition on Creag Meagaidh. Although the weekend climbers and walkers had all headed back to work, the combination of the cold and sun had clearly drawn many like a magnet as we struggled to find space in the car park at Aberarder.

Looking along Coire Ardair on our way up to Na Cnapanan
Looking along Coire Ardair on our way up to Na Cnapanan

Rather than simply walk in to our proposed snow hole site, we decided to make a full expedition of it and take in the ridge to the north of Coire Ardair. Gaining that much height with full expedition rucksacks on our backs was always going to be hard work, especially for Alfie, so we mentally split the day into more manageable sections. Our first target was to get onto Na Cnapanan, which involved lading through knee deep heather on the steep slope up to the ridge. Although hard work, this route did give us great views looking down the length of Coire Ardair to our west, and the promise of snow and our snow hole site just through the Window.

Whilst making steady progress up the ridge from Na Cnapanan to the rounded summit of Carn Liath, we met a group of four walkers out for a day trip. One of the group was two thirds of his way through his second round of the Munros, which lead to some interesting conversations. Although we were impressed by this accomplishment, they seemed equally impressed by the fact that a 15 year old lad would rather spend half term in a snowhole in the mountains than at home on a playstation.

Alfie trying to get his fingers to work
Alfie trying to get his fingers to work

Once up on the tops, the going became that much easier and we were able to make some good progress. Although we enjoyed bright blue skies, it was certainly pretty cold.  For a time, Alfie struggled to get his fingers working properly and crampons became a necessity on the ice. Even so, I found myself putting my ice axe to good use on one steep stretch, making steps to keep Alfie secure.

Reaching the summit of Stob Poite Coire Ardair was a turning point in attitude. Reaching this highest point of the day, left us with only 150m to drop into our snow hole site, and our minds started to dwell on the digging that lay ahead over the following few hours. We started digging at 3.40pm and finally called the construction process to a halt at about 7.10pm. There wasn’t quite as much snow as I had hoped for, and we hit ground at a couple of points, forcing us to alter our plans and be creative. However, one of the great things about digging a snow hole is that you can be as creative as you like. There are certainly a few principles that ought to be stuck to for safety reasons but, on the whole, you’re only limited by your imagination, time and energy!

On guard at the front door of our snow hole
On guard at the front door of our snow hole

Although we’d just made our new home, the clear night sky was enough to lure us outside for dinner. The lack of any manmade light source for miles around, combined with the clear sky, and glorious moonlight reflecting off the snowpack made for an awesome setting. I’d been using my head torch whilst digging in the snow hole, but soon realised that it made no difference outside due to the quality of the ambient light. I wish a photo could do the experience justice, but I’m afraid it’s one of those things that just needs to be experienced first hand.

After a surprisingly comfortable night’s sleep, we awoke to the pink glow of the sunrise penetrating through the doorway. Less than two hours later, we were packed up and ready to go having eaten and posed for a few photos. The hole point of this trip was for Alfie’s benefit, and I gave him the choice of how we approached our route out. We had the choice of dropping through the Window and following the track out from Coire Ardair or remaining high and completing the horseshoe around the coire before descending to the car. He opted for the quicker route, mainly based on the fact that we had a long drive home ahead of us.

Enjoying the atmosphere of Coire Ardair in the morning sun
Enjoying the atmosphere of Coire Ardair in the morning sun

In the event, it actually took us quite some time to drop through the Window and down to Lochan a Choire. It wasn’t difficult going, but the setting was just so stunning that we had to keep stopping to take photos. Clearly, others had been looking at the weather forecast and Coire Ardair was already starting to fill with winter climbers getting ready to make the most of the conditions. By the time we’d made our way back to the car, we must have seen in excess of 30 people heading in for the day.

Looking back on the last few days, I’m amazed at how fortunate we have been with the weather. I wouldn’t have dared hope that these conditions would coincide with the half term holiday, but it has been a real treat to enjoy the Scottish mountains like this in winter. Will Alfie be wanting to head back into the wilderness next year? I have no idea, but this is an experience that he will never forget and I’d like to think it will spawn a lifelong interest in the mountains.

Finally, I’d like to say a big thanks to Alfie for his company and enthusiasm.

One thought on “Snow Hole Expedition on Creag Meagaidh”

  1. Hey Martin, great reading about the adventures you guys are getting up to! It makes me miss the Highlands. Hopefully soon I can make it over and enjoy some more good time in the hills!!

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